An electrical thought

[Lutin]

What with trying to help peeps with the wiring on their AT's recently (both here and "elsewhere") I've had time to cogitate on such matters. And it occurred to me that the amount of power that's needed to operate the starter solenoid is the same that's needed to light your main beam - roughly 4 Amps. Which is quite a bit really.

I only know this because I've measured the resistance, fairly accurately I might add, of the starter solenoid and it works out at 3.5 Ohms.

As you were.

 

[austin]

Right thats it, you have got me here, what is the significance of this ???? [confused]


Sent from my iPhone with a smile

 

[Lutin]

Right thats it, you have got me here, what is the significance of this ???? [confused]

None really. It's just that AT wiring problems have been cropping up recently and what with the age of these bikes now, one thought led to another. The wiring on some of these bikes must be getting tired now and the connections getting corroded and not really at their best.

Just thinking out loud really.

 

[austin]

One of the reasons I sold my TA last year was corrosion in the loom. Only affected lights luckily but I had had to cut into the loom a few times to expose rotted wires that were failing. I just bodged it up. It needed a new loom really.


Sent from my iPhone with a smile

 

[Whealie]

In my case the melted 30amp fuse connector - meting both the green bit on the solenoid and the red bit on the wiring loom, involved the bike with the two-year old wiring loom ordered brand new from Dave Silver. Nothing to do with tired wires or dirty connections. The solenoid was old - maybe that gave up or has internal problems.


Written with fat thumbs on my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[hotbulb]

I note that many cars these days use a relay to power the starter solenoid, thus reducing further the current passing through the starter switch contacts (although this may also have something to do with the number of "sensors" now used, and the essentially low current environment within the micro-processor controlled environment that's the life and soul of most modern cars!) The Luddite in me views this as yet another potential trouble-spot
Just my ramblings!

:wales-emoticon-vlag:

 

[Chewbadger]

Its usually a switched signal from an ECU that employs logic gates that have to be met before the relay is energised. If multiple ECU's are used for the function, this will also involve CAN links or equivalent to send messages to the controlling ECU.

Only when all this is met will the starter energise and the motor start.

So much for a quick sniff of 'start you bastard' and an old meaty screwdriver across the solenoid......

 

[hotbulb]

My Land Rover's starting handle comes in handy from time to time ld-025:

No logic circuits there !

:wales-emoticon-vlag:

 

[Lutin]

My Land Rover's starting handle comes in handy from time to time ld-025:

No logic circuits there !

:wales-emoticon-vlag:

No, but you have to remember to keep your thumb out of the way.

 

[TopBuzz99]

Right thats it, you have got me here, what is the significance of this ???? [confused]

None really. It's just that AT wiring problems have been cropping up recently and what with the age of these bikes now, one thought led to another. The wiring on some of these bikes must be getting tired now and the connections getting corroded and not really at their best.

Just thinking out loud really.

Looking at the state of my Reg/Rec to stator block Lutin, I think that it may have been responsible (or at least partly so) for the OEM Reg/Reg dying.
Thanks again for the OP

 

[stumpy]

One culprit could be the connectors, the plastic ages and cracks, the spade and bullet connectors corrode.
The increased resistance this causes creates heat and burns out the weakest link.


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[TopBuzz99]

One culprit could be the connectors, the plastic ages and cracks, the spade and bullet connectors corrode.
The increased resistance this causes creates heat and burns out the weakest link.


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I reckon that I missed the melting plastic and corroded connectors in my enthusiasm after fitting my new rear shock, front wheel, re-furbed calipers and other goodies Stumpy

I was well chuffed to get my AT running and MOT'd and I should have delved a bit deeper into known problems before riding a fair few miles first...

That said though, where do you stop looking before riding I guess? I now have the Shindy MOSFET fitted, with a new Motobatt, so in some ways an archaic system that melted down has led to a hopefully future-proofed one of which I'm now aware

 

[Whealie]

I now have the Shindy MOSFET fitted, with a new Motobatt, so in some ways an archaic system that melted down has led to a hopefully future-proofed one of which I'm now aware

Unfortunately my most recent complete meltdown was of a brand new wiring loom, Mosfet reg/rec and mottoblatt battery, so no guarantees.

 

[Philwhiskeydrinker]

I now have the Shindy MOSFET fitted, with a new Motobatt, so in some ways an archaic system that melted down has led to a hopefully future-proofed one of which I'm now aware

Unfortunately my most recent complete meltdown was of a brand new wiring loom, Mosfet reg/rec and mottoblatt battery, so no guarantees.

Something is obviously very wrong then Chris.
No disrespect but it's probably something that you've done ore not done!

 

[TopBuzz99]

Unfortunately my most recent complete meltdown was of a brand new wiring loom, Mosfet reg/rec and mottoblatt battery, so no guarantees.

I did see that you'd had problems with your new loom over at XRV dot org Whealie - hopefully sorted now mate?

 

[Whealie]

Must have been earthing. I was having problems with newly fitted LED indicators not functioning at low revs. The manufacturer could not fathom it, even after a visit. Big fuse meltdown prompted removal of everything from battery terminals to test battery and reg/rec etc. then re-fitting. Now no problems with indicators either.


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