Spiti Valley - Northern India

Barftone

Well-Known Member
Well the big adventure finally came to pass. After having to postpone a trip to Nepal last Nov because of my torn achilles, myself and friend Tony moved the holiday to the Spiti Valley trip in northern India with Blazing Trails. We flew into Delhi not to meet our guide. After hooking up with fellow bikers (7 of us) and a few phone calls back to the UK eventually our "helper" showed up and taxis whisked us off to a hotel for a couple of hours before we got on the train to Kalka. The heat...the number of people...the smells....Michael Palin was right when he said India assaults all your senses! Sort of first class was OK but we could not get tickets for the toy train to Shimla so we had a minibus driven by an Indian advanced motorist which gave us our first hairaising taste of driving. About 4 stress filled hours later we ended up in Shimla at a decent hotel for a night to recover before the bikes the following day. Shimla was the old British summer HQ to try and get away from the heat of the Delhi plain. They were so desparate the incredible railway was built to climb its way up to the himalayan foothills.

Shimla


Our trusty steeds were 500 Royal Enfields. Suprisingly competant on the tarmac and dirty stuff apart from its sloth like gearbox


After a couple of beers and a good nights kip we were introduced to the Enfields and their right hand, back to front gearboxes. Soon afterwards we launched into the traffic with horns blasting everything...I found it strangely exhilerating trying to navigate on the roads where there are no rules....the biggest vehicle rules and we were pretty small! We headed up the Sutlej valley to Sarahan where our temple room awaited at Sarahan. On the way we had our first Dhuba experience...Chai and Momo,s...just dont look at where the dishes were being washed :eekicon:



Sutlej valley



We headed up to Kalka for a couple of nights and a free day to relax in the shadow of Kinnaur Kailash, a mountain in the Kinnaur district of the Indian state Himachal Pradesh. The Kinnaur Kailash has a height of 6050 meters and is considered as sacred by both Hindu and Buddhist religions



more later!
 

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Barftone

Well-Known Member
We headed up to Sangla for a bit of glamping no less which the 8% Tuborgs and a very comfy bed ensured a good sleep was had. Our first taste of the dirty stuff had a few of the guys sweating but with a steep baptism of fire confidence was soon gained


We headed into the Spiti Valley with our special visa all in order. Tibet was just over the mountain. The gorge soon opened out into a magnificent vista



We headed up towards our first ovenight stop at Taba where the Dalai Lama is supposedly going to retire to. It is the oldest Buddist monastry founded in AD996



My Karma was in balance and the planets were in line!



A trip up to a dead end temple got us up over 4500m. Met a Punjabi family on holiday who asked for some piccies with them and followed this with a car stereo blasting out a celebratery dance for a few minutes which everyone had a jig...great fun. The Indians go on holiday together.....olds, ma, pa, kids, uncles, aunties, blah blah....We met a group of bikers doing a similar route to us but they had the family follwing in 2 minibuses as well.
 

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Barftone

Well-Known Member
Blazing trails operate a very slick convoy system. Adam and Kate were the run leaders. Adam did a great job and kept up a fair lick at the front and people could ride at their own pace. He had to do this to keep the timetable ticking along. A 2 up bike ridden be Jamial and Javed at the back of of the riders meant any tech problems were dealt with with quickly and bikes could be swopped if necessary. A backup truck followed up at the rear with a driver and Wendy our ex GP medic who was on hand with help in case of accidents and dellybelly (more later!), etc. They have I believe 16 years experience running this particular trip so are well versed with any issues. I thought the whole thing worked very well. A fuel kitty and break stop kitty were contributed to up front (40 quid each). I took 300 pounds and did not need any more changing. This included beers, some evening meals, etc.
Anyway back to the trip: Onwards towards Dhonkar Gomba (3894m) monastery...wow what a setting and view...we had a visit inside which was very calming....man.




Inside...it was all going so well....until his mobile went off :lol:





We headed to Kaza for fuel...no rules at the pumps...local big cheese thought he could push in front of everyone..carnage....all this peace and karma until it comes to getting fuel :thumbsupanim:

That night was the highest stay at Kibber, a village high in the Spiti Valley in the Himalayas at 4270 metres or 14,200 ft in Himachal Pradesh in northern India. Breathing at night was slowwww on our bed of nails so pretty rough night.
Kids filling water containers


The good looking support team! Wendy, Jamial, and Javed


Then we hit the road to the Kunzum Pass. Low snows this year meant only a couple of river crossings, of which only one caused any real issues. After a bit of huffing and puffing all got through OK. I was enjoying chasing Adam on the dirty stuff up at point...big grin on my face....low bars standing up gave me a couple of scares but great fun.


Local shepard with his pretty dawg


tbc!
 

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Barftone

Well-Known Member
Onto the highest point of the trip...Kunzum Pass (Tibetan: Kunzum La, (el. 4,590 m or 15,060 ft), is a high mountain pass on the eastern Kunzum Range of the Himalayas some 122 km (76 mi) from Manali. It connects the Kullu Valley and Lahaul Valley with the Spiti Valley of Himachal Pradesh, India
Weather turned a bit grey for the first time but rain stayed off




We headed over the pass and then headed to Menali over the Rohtang Pass. My tummy started to twitch...oh no.....not good....emergency stop....WOOOSH and my downfall had begun. Back onto tarmac and the drop down to Manali where a 2 night break in a decent hotel awaited. I started to suffer pretty badly and imodium and paracetamol was the order of the day. Manali is kinda like Grindenwald in a strange LSD trip dream. Loads of people on holiday meant a tough ride in through the chaos but as usual the team did a great job of getting us to the hotel. The day off was spent mainly in bed or close to a loo. Wendy came to help out with some antibiotics and rehydration packs but I was off alcohol so must have been bad :mockery17: We then headed off to Shoja for the night. This was more alpine forests and a pleasent temperature.



I found it hard work getting back to Shimla and by the time we got back the following day I was totally wiped out fighting back a little tear in the corner of my eye. Kate was also suffering and as a run leader it must have been really tough trying to manup through it?
A good nights rest and the bung up drugs finally starting to work we got onto the toy train back to Kalka followed by a sleeper back to Delhi and home! Now I sit at home reflecting the stone I have lost and what a true adventure it was....even if it is a relatively safe way of doing it.




Would I recommend a holiday with Blazing Trails? Oh yes...this holiday cost 3 grand which I consider pretty good value these days for a holiday of a lifetime experience..yes you can do it yourself cheaper BUT you do not get any of the support and accomodation sorted, etc. There were a couple of falls and a couple of technical probs which were dealt with excellently. Poor old Vito who hurt his shoulder going down through sand on tarmac and smacked his head on the gorge wall! He soldiered on riding and still did his best to make the most of the trip. Welsh Tone hurt his foot a bit but again carried on OK. Thanks to Geordie Tone (lots of Tones!) who having been before helped sort stuff at the train stations etc.
It was great to meet the other riders as well and lots of laughs were had on the way.
Also worth mentioning is Suzie the owner who on hearing of my torn achilles said straight away said pick another holiday and let her know (for me and WelshTone). There was no cost to swop at all so hats off for that one......Now....South Africa anyone?


A few more pics to enjoy:

The beast. Mine had an open pipe which sounded lovely in the gorges...doff...doff...doff


Driver of the year...Ha!


Only an Italian can look this cool after a week of riding in the wilds...Vito


Will I buy one?.....No. But pretty accomplished nevertheless


Where did you get that hat?


John seeking a mental calm......after 6 beers that is!


WelshTone...lovin it



Thankyou and goodnight...now off to the loo....again!!!
 

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Meesh

Active Member
Forum Supporter
Wow! What an amazing adventure... Great read and fabulous pictures

Thank you for sharing this with us all Tone.

:) :) X
 

Lowflyer

Well-Known Member
How did I miss this ?

Excellent stuff Tony, many thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:
Looks like you had a great time :cool:
 
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