On the trail tube changing kit

[DaveS]

What kit does everyone take out on the trails to be able to change a tube if the need arises?
Speaking to @Whealie at the national got me thinking of what tools to take out.

 

[Rubberchicken]

Errr, you had a 1250 GS didn't you, those don't come with tubes

I carry one of those little rubber mushroom sets for tubeless tyres, but I've had no opportunity to test them yet. And a little 12V compressor thingy and a tyre lever up the central frame tube just because the room was there. If the tyre comes off the rim, I'm probably fucked anyway.

 

[DaveS]

Errr, you had a 1250 GS didn't you, those don't come with tubes

I carry one of those little rubber mushroom sets for tubeless tyres, but I've had no opportunity to test them yet. And a little 12V compressor thingy and a tyre lever up the central frame tube just because the room was there. If the tyre comes off the rim, I'm probably fucked anyway.

Sorry should have explained. I have a KTM EXC-F 350 which Ive recently acquired and I'm debating mousses or tubes and if I go tubes then getting better at changing a tube by the roadside.

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

The answer is ....mousses

 

[austin]

Practice is the key thing to getting tyres off and on. No amount of kit helps if you don’t know how to do it well. I don’t do tyres very often but I used to, don’t trail ride anymore and I’m not good at it (tyres) but manage really well sometimes, other times it’s an exhausting fight until something clicks and it’s suddenly easy. Practice is what I need.

If your tyres get a tenacious grip on your wheel some sort of bead breaker is needed. Or your mate’s side stand if you’ve a mate with you.

Tyre levers. I was told Big long uns can mask poor technique so learn to use short ones. About 8” is what I have. Make sure they are good uns and string.

Patches and glue. Just whatever vulcanisation kit is available. I haven’t upgraded my stuff years so there may be something loads better available now.

Valve core remover means the tube can be fully deflated which makes refitting it easier. Also allows use of a little tool to pull the valve stem into place. Rim protectors nice to have but not essential. Lube is helpful too. Tyre soap if you can carry it but anything helps. Wd40 works well as tyre lube.

Pump Airman sparrow has served me well for years. A bit bulky but reliable.

Practice a few times before you need to do it for real. It’s all about getting bead off and down into well of the wheel. If you are finding the bit of tyre you are working on impossibly tight it’s probably because the opposite side (the bit by your knees not the other bead) is not in the well deep enough.

Motion pro do good if a tad pricey tools.

 

[DaveS]

Practice is the key thing to getting tyres off and on. No amount of kit helps if you don’t know how to do it well. I don’t do tyres very often but I used to, don’t trail ride anymore and I’m not good at it (tyres) but manage really well sometimes, other times it’s an exhausting fight until something clicks and it’s suddenly easy. Practice is what I need.

If your tyres get a tenacious grip on your wheel some sort of bead breaker is needed. Or your mate’s side stand if you’ve a mate with you.

Tyre levers. I was told Big long uns can mask poor technique so learn to use short ones. About 8” is what I have. Make sure they are good uns and string.

Patches and glue. Just whatever vulcanisation kit is available. I haven’t upgraded my stuff years so there may be something loads better available now.

Valve core remover means the tube can be fully deflated which makes refitting it easier. Also allows use of a little tool to pull the valve stem into place. Rim protectors nice to have but not essential. Lube is helpful too. Tyre soap if you can carry it but anything helps. Wd40 works well as tyre lube.

Pump Airman sparrow has served me well for years. A bit bulky but reliable.

Practice a few times before you need to do it for real. It’s all about getting bead off and down into well of the wheel. If you are finding the bit of tyre you are working on impossibly tight it’s probably because the opposite side (the bit by your knees not the other bead) is not in the well deep enough.

Motion pro do good if a tad pricey tools.

Good comments there Austin.

 

[DaveS]

The answer is ....mousses

What mousses do you use Phil? How often do you relube? I think I'm going with Michelin Tracker tyres.

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

I don't go buy the book and it's done OK for me , I've used Michelin bib to start with then the cheaper ones and found on difference, l only relube when changing tyres and on average get two tyres per mousse , usually 3 back 2 front ....rocky here So the front gets a battering

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

 

[DaveS]

Ok I’ve ordered some Michelin Trackers and some mousses. We’ll see what they’re like and how I get on with them.

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

If you are fitting yhem yourself get extra lude there's never enough supplied with each mousse

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

I really like the trackers just taken one off the back because I wanted to try this big bugger 140 with a mousse

 

[boboneleg]

Congrats on the new bike Dave , great chioce .

Mousses or tubes ? This depends totally on what sort of riding you'll be doing imo . If you're just doing local lanes or you're using a van to get to lanes elsewhere then go for mousess but if you're doing a mixture of roads and trails then I would go for tubes.

I understand what Phil's saying but his trails are right on his doorstep and he doesn't have to do a lot of roadwork, it's a bit different over here.

Minimum requirement for running tubes is spare tubes (you can get away with just a front 21'') , tyre levers, a compressor/pump and of course the necessary tools to get your wheel off. I also carry a small stand to jack the bike up .

 

[DaveS]

just to update.. so I ordered some Trackers and BIB mousses as I mentioned. I spent a good 4 hours fitting the damn things as I’ve never done it before. Watching loads of YouTube videos. I’ve not had a workout like that in a long time.. pouring with sweat, but got it done, end result was good!
I took your advice Phil on plenty of lube, bought some extra tubes of it, and put two in a rear.
I’ll see how I get on Bob, as you say there’s plenty of roadwork our way, but consulting with some of the Somerset TRF guys they reckon plenty of lube helps with the road work. We’ll see anyway!

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

Good effort Dave ...4hrs ....it doesn't get easier
I'm 100 sure you'll like them not just for traction but peace of mind.
As far as road work is concerned just take it easy , if I can and there's a grass verge I ride on it heat is your enemy

 

[DaveS]

Well after my initial 140 mile trip out on them last weekend with 70 of that being roadwork getting to and from Exmoor they performed faultlessly.
I guess time will tell!
I did find them probably too hard for some of the more advanced lanes, one lane "Spanish steps" on Exmoor was more or less solid slippery rock all the way up and I really struggled to get traction on that. Those on with Tubeliss ran a lower pressure which I guess helped with grip, or maybe it was more down to technique!
Fell off twice but that was down to my lack of ability.

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

A lot depends on your tyre choice, wet slab rock is like ice , it cost a lot but o use soft compound tyres and soft mousse , they great for grip but don't last long , and I've only got at most 5% tar on every 100km of trails

 

[DaveS]

Here's me slip sliding up the Spanish Steps on Exmoor. It was so slippy on several bits I couldn't even stand up without falling on my arse!

 

[PHILinFRANCE]

We all do it Dave but try weighting the pegs next time , you'll be surprised

 

[Mervin]

emergency/ get you home tubeless repair needeing only a cross head screwdriver, threaded plug and pump