nigelphoto
New Member
I have a very old Tom Tom One which I want to be able to run on my bike as well as the car. I have read somewhere that it requires 5v feed not 12v - is a cigarette lighter socket the only way I can do this?
jasonbc said:I've got a Tomtom 510 which is donkeys years old and that came with a cigar socket power plug for powering it in the car. I just wired a socket inon the bike and it's been fine never given me any issues
Boris said:I've used these. Lots of styles to chose from but make sure its at least 15W
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
nigelphoto said:Boris said:I've used these. Lots of styles to chose from but make sure its at least 15W
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... +&_sacat=0
I've ordered one of these, what amps in-line glass fuse do I need? Not good with electrics, screwing (err - nuts and bolts) more my scene.
Boris said:So 15W at 12V (Which is the side that the fuse is on) is 1.25A but as far as fuses are concern give it a bit of an overhead to cover losses in the voltage conversion process so 3A would be sufficient. If the donor circuit is already fused at a low value I'd just cut the new fuse off (so I could cut the cable to a suitable length for neatness) and rely on the fuse that protects the donor circuit.
Of course you will need to plumb this into a switched live supply as it will draw a tiny bit of current even when the satnav isn't plugged in. Factor on an additional one amp load on the circuit you choose so in reality just about any circuit such as horn, indicators, position light, tail light etc would suit.
nigelphoto said:Thanks mate, all advice very welcome. Will get 3A fuse as I am intending to wire off secondary supply direct from battery and with a switch in-line to turn off when I am not using the satnav, or is this THE WRONG WAY to do it?!!
nigelphoto said:Boris said:So 15W at 12V (Which is the side that the fuse is on) is 1.25A but as far as fuses are concern give it a bit of an overhead to cover losses in the voltage conversion process so 3A would be sufficient. If the donor circuit is already fused at a low value I'd just cut the new fuse off (so I could cut the cable to a suitable length for neatness) and rely on the fuse that protects the donor circuit.
Of course you will need to plumb this into a switched live supply as it will draw a tiny bit of current even when the satnav isn't plugged in. Factor on an additional one amp load on the circuit you choose so in reality just about any circuit such as horn, indicators, position light, tail light etc would suit.
Thanks mate, all advice very welcome. Will get 3A fuse as I am intending to wire off secondary supply direct from battery and with a switch in-line to turn off when I am not using the satnav, or is this THE WRONG WAY to do it?!!
Ian Porter said:nigelphoto said:Thanks mate, all advice very welcome. Will get 3A fuse as I am intending to wire off secondary supply direct from battery and with a switch in-line to turn off when I am not using the satnav, or is this THE WRONG WAY to do it?!!
if you're going down that route I'd use a relay instead of a switch, that way you can't forget to switch it off
Traveller said:Ps, why Did you need a map to get to that Hell Hole? Birmingham is signposted well enough.
nigelphoto said:Traveller said:Ps, why Did you need a map to get to that Hell Hole? Birmingham is signposted well enough.
I was going to the pub at Norbury Junction on the Shropshire Union canal, not Brum!!