austin
Well-Known Member
Re: Canada & USA 2015
Another quick and photo free update....
So, we left Duluth on a mild and dry day heading East along the South shore of Lake Superior. The Duluth area is actually two quite big towns: Duluth in Minnesota in the west and over the river to Superior in Wisconsin. Duluth dominates however. Both are heavy industry towns (and still are) on account of all resources found in USA and Canada and the shipping industry, although neither has the grime we would associate with heavy industry but there is a lot of decay and the towns' heydays are certainly in the past
After leaving Superior We picked up a "scenic" byway along the south shore of Lake Superior. Byway in this context does not mean a green lane like it might in the UK, just a way marked route that is noted for its scenic or historic merits. There's loads all over the US and they are usually worth following. This took us through some pretty little fishing towns and small resorts to Bayfield and the Apostle islands. Possibly the nicest town on the trip with a nice Main Street, marina, fishing harbour, good coffee shops and a choice of eateries. A bit upmarket though and most clientele somewhat "preppy" we decided to stay two nights and have a day boat trip around the islands.
The downside to the town was while it had loads of B&B, guesthouse and other lodgings it only had two campsites. One was very basic without even running water, the other appeared ok, with great views over the town and islands, so we booked in two nights - a tad pricey at $28 a night and a whole bunch of rules about what not to do, but it was handy and there. What a dump! The pitch sloped two directions at once, the tent area had no views, it was lumpy and open to a road - a quiet one but still open, the pitches were crowded - 6 tents in area fit only for 3 really, and to cap it all the tent campers pit toilets were a literal eye watering disaster - the ammonia was choking. I pissed in the trees and didn't give a damm who saw. The main shower block was a 5 minute hike down the hill and must have been built in 1940. Showers were an extra $1.50 for 4 mins of too hot water. We couldn't wait to leave which was a shame as bayfield was nice, the boat trip was excellent and we bought local and fresh Lake a Trout and Whitefish for dinners. I even tried whitefish livers which were surprisingly nice.
We ended having a really long day after that as we meandered along the scenic byway looking at views and the historic markers the Americans like to put up every do often. Usually marking something very insignificant like "in the field opposite in 1851 John and Mary smith established the first settlement in nowheresville. They traded with the Indians, discovered gold, and soon became millionaires only to loose it all in a game of cards and die of dysentery two years later". (This one is mostly true but I can't recall names or details or where we saw it). Mostly you can't even see the field opposite because of trees that the national park refuse to cut back, and even if you could the wooden cabin will be long gone. It was another cool and windy day (this a theme around Lake Superior as the water is so cold it creates a micro climate around the shores) and somewhat tired after two bad nights in that crappy campsite, and mindful of some more thunderstorms and extreme weather forecasted we aimed for the town of Houghton and a motel. But, it turned to be the town's University drop off weekend and all hotels were booked up for miles around by anxious parents dropping off their loved ones. We were advised to go to Copper Harbour as there were lots of hotels there, it was far enough away from Houghton and it was also very very nice. Copper Harbour is at the tip of the Keenawawa peninsular and is extraordinarily nice. But all hotels and motels and B&B booked do we booked into the campsite - one night this time even though we fancied two. Great site, good location but another shit pitch - tent campers are definitely second class citizens over here with RVers getting best and most convenient spots. The pitch was even shittier in the morning when it started thundering and after four hours of very heavy rain we found ourselves in the middle of a massive and rapidly rising 1-2 inch deep puddle. It was at this point we also discovered the other zip on our tent had bust. With everything packed up in dry bags and mostly dry we ventured out and splashed about in the flood taking a very wet tent down. Jeez it was heavy as I stuffed it into the pannier. Within an hour the sun was out
More later, duties beckon.
Sent from my iPhone with a smile
Another quick and photo free update....
So, we left Duluth on a mild and dry day heading East along the South shore of Lake Superior. The Duluth area is actually two quite big towns: Duluth in Minnesota in the west and over the river to Superior in Wisconsin. Duluth dominates however. Both are heavy industry towns (and still are) on account of all resources found in USA and Canada and the shipping industry, although neither has the grime we would associate with heavy industry but there is a lot of decay and the towns' heydays are certainly in the past
After leaving Superior We picked up a "scenic" byway along the south shore of Lake Superior. Byway in this context does not mean a green lane like it might in the UK, just a way marked route that is noted for its scenic or historic merits. There's loads all over the US and they are usually worth following. This took us through some pretty little fishing towns and small resorts to Bayfield and the Apostle islands. Possibly the nicest town on the trip with a nice Main Street, marina, fishing harbour, good coffee shops and a choice of eateries. A bit upmarket though and most clientele somewhat "preppy" we decided to stay two nights and have a day boat trip around the islands.
The downside to the town was while it had loads of B&B, guesthouse and other lodgings it only had two campsites. One was very basic without even running water, the other appeared ok, with great views over the town and islands, so we booked in two nights - a tad pricey at $28 a night and a whole bunch of rules about what not to do, but it was handy and there. What a dump! The pitch sloped two directions at once, the tent area had no views, it was lumpy and open to a road - a quiet one but still open, the pitches were crowded - 6 tents in area fit only for 3 really, and to cap it all the tent campers pit toilets were a literal eye watering disaster - the ammonia was choking. I pissed in the trees and didn't give a damm who saw. The main shower block was a 5 minute hike down the hill and must have been built in 1940. Showers were an extra $1.50 for 4 mins of too hot water. We couldn't wait to leave which was a shame as bayfield was nice, the boat trip was excellent and we bought local and fresh Lake a Trout and Whitefish for dinners. I even tried whitefish livers which were surprisingly nice.
We ended having a really long day after that as we meandered along the scenic byway looking at views and the historic markers the Americans like to put up every do often. Usually marking something very insignificant like "in the field opposite in 1851 John and Mary smith established the first settlement in nowheresville. They traded with the Indians, discovered gold, and soon became millionaires only to loose it all in a game of cards and die of dysentery two years later". (This one is mostly true but I can't recall names or details or where we saw it). Mostly you can't even see the field opposite because of trees that the national park refuse to cut back, and even if you could the wooden cabin will be long gone. It was another cool and windy day (this a theme around Lake Superior as the water is so cold it creates a micro climate around the shores) and somewhat tired after two bad nights in that crappy campsite, and mindful of some more thunderstorms and extreme weather forecasted we aimed for the town of Houghton and a motel. But, it turned to be the town's University drop off weekend and all hotels were booked up for miles around by anxious parents dropping off their loved ones. We were advised to go to Copper Harbour as there were lots of hotels there, it was far enough away from Houghton and it was also very very nice. Copper Harbour is at the tip of the Keenawawa peninsular and is extraordinarily nice. But all hotels and motels and B&B booked do we booked into the campsite - one night this time even though we fancied two. Great site, good location but another shit pitch - tent campers are definitely second class citizens over here with RVers getting best and most convenient spots. The pitch was even shittier in the morning when it started thundering and after four hours of very heavy rain we found ourselves in the middle of a massive and rapidly rising 1-2 inch deep puddle. It was at this point we also discovered the other zip on our tent had bust. With everything packed up in dry bags and mostly dry we ventured out and splashed about in the flood taking a very wet tent down. Jeez it was heavy as I stuffed it into the pannier. Within an hour the sun was out
More later, duties beckon.
Sent from my iPhone with a smile
Camp sites where you have to pay are to be avoided. Remind me again - what am I doing this weekend? 
We headed back west the long way round for a hundred or so miles before cutting south to get onto Manitoulin Island - the largest island within a lake in the world and also with the largest lake within an island within a lake. From the north its a couple of short bridges and causeways to get onto the island but its a two hour ferry crossing south across Lake Huron onto a pensinsular north of Toronto. Lots of indian heritage stuff to look at on the island but it was hot and we were, umm, a bit tired after the exertions at the rally and couldn't be bothered with the tent so went into a motel opposite the ferry terminal and with a great view of the harbour area and across lake huron. The British Style Lake trout and chips was excellent. 
) but we avoided all the various paid for boat rides, tunnels, viewing platforms etc etc and just walked along the prom enjoying the views, sights and best of all the spray from the falls - the temperature now having risen back into the mid 30's centigrade. 
