DRZS v DRZSM

[Whealie]

The SM appears to be a lot cheaper second hand. Apart from being available in black what other differences are there? If you stuck the bigger front wheel and knobblies on an SM, what differences would there be?

 

[Rubberchicken]

The SM has an USD fork, the E and S models have a (quite nice) conventional fork, for one.

That's about as far as my knowledge of the DRZ range goes.

 

[Paul-S]

There are several differences but mostly in the suspension department

Brakes and calipers, rotors are different (as well as the obvious wheels!)

People have tried to use the SM for offroading and overlanding but not exactly suitable due to the shorter travel

Gearing is different too

The different forks also have a different lock to lock so you have a bigger turning circle on the SM than an S

Engine is the same on later ones

Early S models had a lower compression and lower power output. (the E had a pumper carb and more horses). When they brought out the SM they did away with the FCR pumper carb amd all bikes run the same carb set up with a higher compression engine

The lower comp engine copes better with altitude and lower octane fuel so is one that more people want for overlanding

After almost 2 years of researching these bikes the general concensus is that it's better to kit out an S with supermoto wheels and adjust the suspension than try to use an SM for offroading

Hope this helps

Masses of informatio n on ADV rider and Thumpertalk

Some very basic info here

http://www.suzukicycles.org/DR-series/i ... l~isoraami

I have all the bits through now to start work on my bike (I have weighed everything too)

When all swapped over the bike (full fuel) will weigh in at 148 kgs

That's almost 100kgs lighter than my AT (242 kgs)

 

[boboneleg]

When all swapped over the bike (full fuel) will weigh in at 148 kgs

That's almost 100kgs lighter than my AT (242 kgs)

That's all very well but we want pictures of all your mods as they progress

 

[Paul-S]

When all swapped over the bike (full fuel) will weigh in at 148 kgs

That's almost 100kgs lighter than my AT (242 kgs)

That's all very well but we want pictures of all your mods as they progress

I won't be able to do a bit by bit photo shoot but I'll put up a comprehensive before and after post. I'm having the work done by the guy that used to look after my race bikes and now looks after the ATs. I trust him implicitly and it helps keep him in business. Times are tough at present. I am also very short on time due to work and University course now having the next 2 years condesed over the next 7 months!

After I have posted up it's likely I will be off the radar till after July but will be at the National on it for a shakedown ride

 

[Rubberchicken]

Sounds like a fun project.

I hope to bring my DRZ frontend to the next National as well.

 

[Raymo]

http://www.remotemoto.com/articles/drz4 ... ike-build/

nice

 

[Whealie]

That is an interesting modded DRZ. I reckon a 28 litre fuel tank might be overdoing it, though.

 

[Raymo]

Guy is in New Zealand , so may be fewer fuel stations ?
tank also protects the rads

 

[Whealie]

I like the look of the 17l version. That gives plenty of distant without so much weight.

 

[Paul-S]

I like the look of the 17l version. That gives plenty of distant without so much weight.

The Clarke tank actually holds 16.5 litres and all of this is useable compared to the other manufacturer because the tank sits higher

The other tanks have fuel at a lower level than the carb and the DRZ does not have a fuel pump

There is up to 1/4 of the fuel that sits below this level. The way people access it is by laying the bike on its side to get fuel over

Not ideal

The Clarke will still give 200+ miles range and I have 2 x 1.5 ltr fuel friends to carry / fit if needed

Best protection for the radiators is not the fuel tank but proper guards - Devol or Unabiker. Niether of these can be fitted with the Aqualine tanks but can be fitted with the Clarke and with some mods the Acerbis

 

[Raymo]

200+ miles is enough

and as you're going for a light solution, your saving 16kg by not having the additional 20l.. the big tank the Kiwi guy has fitted protects his rads and he has additional rad protectors too.... good article.. like how easy it is to reto fit a kick start mmmmm may dust off the DR600 ( no rads to protect 19L tank but 30 years old to old for you Paul ).

seems daft having fuel in a tank you can't use? you could fit a fuel pump, but why add that complexity?

If you have to access your additional fuel by laying the bike over, its best stored else where

 

[Whealie]

200 miles is enough, I reckon. I've only got a 130 mile arse and, often, only a 100 mile bladder.

 

[Rubberchicken]

Guy is in New Zealand , so may be fewer fuel stations ?

That's on the main road in Fox Glacier heading for Haast.

I can totally see carrying "a bit" more when crossing offroad through remote areas (and they've got -proper- remote stuff there!).

On the other hand, the 13l tank on the rental DR650 was (just) enough when sticking mostly to the roads. I had a 5l can on the back that I didn't end up using, so 17l should go quite a way.